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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.